25.11.2010 - simultaneously on the Caribbean coast
Fast with the departure of our daughter came back the rain. Another day we spent at the campsite in Belén and did some things in the budget, then we have left the central highland rainy quickly.
In Costa Rica raged this year, as in almost all Central American and South American countries, the worst rains for several decades. Again and again it came to road closures because the road was buried by soil or broken into. Also, we were not on this Sunday very far. The only link between San José and Puerto Limón was not passable. Even before the toll gate is jammed vehicles. Good riddance to our home wherever you go. We drove to a parking lot located next to the road to drink coffee in peace and to observe the situation. was not abolished as the roadblock to the darkness, we set ourselves for the night.
The next morning we were wedged between trucks, vans and many cars. The driver had the night, as well as he spent in their cars and enjoyed the coffee, which we offered our immediate neighbors. All had Our inventories are not enough. Some came to us several times to say thank you and throw the same again a look inside the hobby. "Bonito, muy bonito" we heard again and again. Then suddenly a new beginning. The vehicles on the road drove slowly and in the parking lot all ran after a volatile adoption, to their cars to come too quickly. We waited another half hour until the run was over, and were then able to accept without much traffic the route to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica's second largest city and main commercial center on the Caribbean coast, under the wheels.
The road was completed in 1988 on the Cordillera Central and through the Braulio Carillo National Park in the Caribbean coastal plain. This was not to overlook what is the main source of income in the region. On large sites along the road were the thousands of refrigerated containers to be filled with this great thriving banana. About the new container port in Moin, they are then exported around the world. The old port was bad since the earthquake on 22.04.1991 for large commercial vessels become inaccessible after the off-shore coral reef was lifted by 1.5 meters.
Residents Puerto Limón are a motley little people of European, Asian and African origin, by the railway construction, the end of the 19th Century, found work here. Ignored by San Jose, she lived a life away from the rest of society and until 1948 they were given full civil rights. Their descendants today do the low paid hard work in the banana plantations or eke out a work opportunity.
these circumstances it is owed, that Puerto Limon is one marked by crime and high unemployment Prostition dirty port city, which scarcely to linger invites. The mainly black-skinned people looked grimly at us begging or making gestures to us all, other than welcome. We had a tour of the city is not a good feeling and were glad when we had passed the last wretched huts on the outskirts of the city behind us. On the Caribbean coast we drove further south.
Shortly after Cahuita, one of the main tourist destinations on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, sits on the edge of the Cahuita National Park, an old cocoa plantation. Here we spent a whole day between tropical vegetation, animals observed paddling with a canoe to the sea and relaxed the pool. In the afternoon we met wool (Wolfgang), the German owner, who invited us spontaneously to his lodge in Puerto Viejo. We could stand with the camper under the palm trees, had water, electricity, and above all, a huge collection of books available where we could exchange our books read to them.
The Caribbean beach, just behind the lodge is only since the earthquake of 1991 present in today's width. Here the increase of the sea bed has a positive effect and the elevated coral reef had holds high waves and sharks. The whole coast from Puerto Viejo south was declared a nature reserve, with strict Building requirements and the prohibition of motor boats in coastal waters. Thus, here a typical Caribbean coastline obtained, which fascinated us every day.
One week we treated ourselves to be still on the natural campsite in Punta Uva, until it was time to continue on to Panama. We wanted time to ship before Christmas, our motor home to Colombia.
05/12/2010 - The islands' Bocas del Toro "
few kilometers separated us even from the border with Panama. We drove through a landscape dominated by banana production. On either side of the road stretched huge banana plantations, interspersed with small primitive settlements of the banana workers and some packaging stations. The banana is the only chance, he creates jobs and a living wage - but also many environmental and health problems. The banana plants leach from the soil so that it is after 8 to 10 years is no longer usable for several years and lie fallow. Thus, new areas needed the most by the Deforestation can be obtained. To increase the yield will be huge amounts, groundwater polluting, chemical fertilizers used. Even more critical is the extensive use of pesticides that are banned in Europe long ago. Increased infant mortality, many cancer and infertility in women and men are the price to pay for the banana workers - their wages on the other hand is a mere 10-14 U.S. $ a day. An amount with which one in Costa Rica can now survive.
left with these last impressions we Costa Rica and went on an adventurous journey over the old Railway bridge, which spans the border river Rio Sixaola. The bridge was crowded with people, they used the price differential between Costa Rica and Panama and bought all kinds of things in Panama. Cars we have not seen on the bridge and we were not sure whether the bridge for our mobile home is ever released. The border officials in Costa Rica we waved an impatient "Adelante, Adelante" through, and so we went slowly on with a slightly queasy feeling. Both sides of the old rails were laid loose planks, which were partially slip so that our front wheel would fit well in between. The pedestrian, with its large purchases, even Mattresses and car tires have been hauled over, had to adapt to the rickety railing press, to let us pass.
At the other end of the bridge the entry formalities for Panama were done. From the reports of other Globetrotter we knew that the entry clearance may be no fault to not to complicate the shipping process in Panama. After completing the immigration procedure, I went to a camper with all papers and compared with the entries Petra. How could it be otherwise, the engine number was wrong, a digit was missing. I went back and let the change Einreisepermit and the entry pass, but now was the second mistake. On the old cry machine that served the correction, pounded the official, even before I could react, instead of an S, a 5 in the document. He looked relaxed but with Tipp-Ex and a handwritten correction was all straightened. Now I would at least still have a stamp on the entry so that you could see that the Tipp-Ex correction was performed prior to stamping. But the overtaxed immigration officers as he pressed the stamp for the first time somewhere, but not corrected on the spot. In the end I had an entry in my passport at the customs and police in Panama City is only produced more head shaking.
just behind the border crossing we found ourselves in the midst of noisy traders, crowded bars and tailgating bargain hunters in the border town Guabito. We were glad to leave this place behind us quickly and drove towards Almirante. At least we thought until we had totally lost. No sign showed us the way to Panama and we lacked the GPS map. After a random walk, we were finally on the right road to Almirante, which led to many curves through a thick coastal forest and offered no possibility to stay and parking. Fortunately, the road was in good condition and we reached Almirante against clock 20:00. A helpful Passerby showed us the way to a hotel where we could stand over night - and asked for "A little tip please", use a small tip. We had experienced such a thing from Mexico to here and never were a bit surprised. It is in Panama but normal, expected that for every little assistance to tip or even require - at least by us tourists.
The next day we explored the islands of the archipelago, Bocas del Toro, located in the Bay of Almirante. Almirante brought us a water taxi to Bocas del Toro province capital, on Isla Colon. The place has a Caribbean flair. Wooden buildings with verandas and balconies line the streets, reminiscent of the old Southern architecture of the United States. Many homes are now owned by foreigners, including many Europeans who have with hotels, bars and restaurants an existence built up under the tropical sun. In Bocas we chartered a boat and sailed into it, in the Bahia de Almirante.
Columbus and his crew were the first Europeans who discovered the bay and in his honor Bahia de Almirante bay of the Admiral, called. Even today, Columbus is revered very much. In his notes he wrote: "... the bay ... had many islands and islets and three or four openings, which allowed the ships enter and quiet weiterzusegeln. Between these islands the ships went on a road like the sails and ropes and touched the branches of trees ... ". This description us going through his mind, as our small boat between the mostly uninhabited, with mangrove vegetation, islands went through. On some islands, we have created, bathed in the lapped by crystal clear water beaches and snorkeling at the coral reef. It was absolutely amazing, what colors is formed under water. Like a blooming rock garden, in which none the colorful fish that here, without fear swam around me and the perfect idyll made. It was a wonderful trip and Basko was satisfied, he could be the whole day.
We stayed another night in Almirante and drove the next morning after David, on the Pacific side, and from there in the rain at the Pan American Highway to Panama City.
12/10/2010 - organization is all led
In Panama City are our first way to Barwil-Shipping-Agencies. The parking lot in front of the business center was empty and after half an hour we knew why. It was Dia de la Madre - Mother's Day in Panama. It was raining again and we had no desire to go away again. The large car park we spent the night and next morning we were standing point in the office of Barwil clock 08:00.
Evelyn Batista, from many famous travel accounts, immediately took time for us and checked out the possibilities. We would like to convey our motor home with a ro-ro ship (roll-on roll-off) to Colombia, but would be the nearest vessel was already booked. We still do not know why, but Evelyn has provided us with much persuasive power of Lo-Lo-shipment (lift-on lift-off) is advised. Since we wanted to have everything done before Christmas we decided to have forced this option. Lo-Lo at the mobile home is on a 40 "platform (Flatrack) down and transported on the ship as the highest load.
was After an hour with the shipment of Haneburg, scheduled departure in Colon on 12/15/2010, booked, and we had a docket for the next few errands in the hand. The first stop was the PTJ, the Policia Tecnica Judicial (N 08 ° 57.951 'W 79 ° 32.674') in Panama City. The small parking lot of the technical police station looked a little neglected and marginalized directly to the slums of Curundú. The area is far from certain. During vehicle inspection, which took place very quickly and easily and is limited to the control of the chassis number or registration number, we heard shots. The official said it would be normal. There is always something in the slums, gang wars and murders.
We quickly left this part of the city. Our goal is the Miraflores locks of the Panama Canal were - but the channel was only operating as slowly again. The heavy rain of recent days had led to the channel had to be closed for the first time in its nearly 100-year history. The visibility was so limited that the ships could not safely enter the locks. On the way back we saw along the road to the French cemetery with thousands of small crosses for the victims of the canal construction. 75,000 workers were involved in the construction of canals and a third of his life was for this technical mammoth project. Especially in the first phase of French-led 20,000 workers died of yellow fever or malaria. The cost for the construction of the canal amounted to the U.S., which had taken over the channel after the failure of the French project, $ 427 million. Money well spent, considering that the ships are now paying up to $ 250,000 for a canal transit. For shipping companies, it is nevertheless the cheapest and fastest alternative, because the 30,000 mile circumnavigation of Cape Horn would cost many times more, not to mention the time savings.
Impressed by the human output volume and the technical dimension of the channel, we drove back to Panama City to perform our second date in the Secretaria General of the Policia National, near the PTJ, . This was confirmed in writing that the information on the import document our motorhome, we have no outstanding traffic fines and are not wanted by Interpol. That was ever calm.
This important paper, we are again driven to Barwil, have the vehicle shipped and get paid for the documents for the vehicle tax in Colon. The payment was in cash only. We had begun to withdraw money in time because we only U.S. $ 500 per day from cash machines were. With two credit cards, it was correspondingly faster. The next day Evelyn has yet booked our flights and Hotel Bella Vista in Cartagena. The flight booking was not without problems, because in mid-December in Panama and Colombia, the main holiday season begins. The flights were booked up as far as possible and very expensive. Only in a society it was possible Basko bring in his air box. It was a flight with a stopover in Bogotá, but we were sure that the 4-hour flight incl stay in Bogota Basko was reasonable - a big mistake, as it turned out later to be.
now it was Friday afternoon and we almost had it all together. Vehicle output in Colon on Monday, flying on Tuesday and scheduled abolition Haneburg on Wednesday - now we need only a veterinary examination for Basko. A veterinarian was quickly found and the investigation, it also is not a problem because Baskos documents are complete and all vaccinations were entered properly. The problem lay in the rules of the State of Panama. The investigation had to a government department to be confirmed - and that usually takes, including the mail delivery times, 5 working days. For far too long for our schedule. What now, there is no other solution? In Panama, can be regulated much money, and the young vet then had to instruct the idea of an agency that can confirm the document in a day. It really worked. On Monday afternoon, we were brought the yellow form from the government confirmed to the hotel and we paid $ 100 U.S. for this service. Emergencies are just being exploited. This was exactly the same way for the shipment.
This was only necessary because the Pan-American Highway between Panama and Colombia, is interrupted for a distance of about 100 km. For the Americans it was all right, that there was no road through the Darien and she is committed to ensuring that it remained so. It was believed to prevent, so the unhindered transport of drugs between South and Central America. Meanwhile, the almost inaccessible jungle of the Darien, the retreat of the guerrillas and a major drug corridor to Panama. The construction of the so-called Pan-American Highway through the Darien Gap is a distant memory. There is only the possibility, in the Atlantic or the Pacific side, to sail around the area. Since there are no ferries only transport is by cargo ship and the few reliable shipping companies require immoral prices. For the nearly 200 miles from Colon to Cartagena, we have paid almost exactly as much as for the shipment of Halifax Hamburg. It is the most expensive 200 km of our journey.
the days until the flight to Colombia, we spent the Hostal Amador (N 08 ° 56 960 'W 79 ° 33 332'), near the old town of Panama City. We could stand with the camper on the property and sleep after the car tax in the hostel. We felt very comfortable, the staff was nice and very helpful. In addition to preparing our motor home for sea transport among others we have a plywood partition between cab and living area built, we had enough time to explore the city.
Panama City is a modern cosmopolitan city and an international banking center. Eight of the ten biggest skyscrapers in Latin America are here, the shopping centers are almost greater than in North America and the Old Town is just breathed with great attention to detail new life. An all around beautiful city, there would not be neglected slums, the ghetto in Panama City, in the middle of the city. Not even during the day should be a tourist in the slums of El Chorrillo, Curundú and in the Distrito San Miguelito stop. In a taxi we saw the full extent of this desolate area. Unlike in other major cities of Central America, people do not live here in huts on the outskirts, but in dilapidated high-rises in the middle of the city. The sewage ran down the walls and it was bursting with dirt and decay. Those who live here certainly has little chance to get out from this milieu. Violence, crime and drugs dominate life in the slums and even the police patrol only at the margins of these areas. For us, this contrast between the lavish wealth and abject poverty in a tiny space very depressing and we wondered whether in fact these people have no perspective can be created.
13/12/2010 - Farewell in Colon
On Monday morning I was already against 07:00 clock on the way from Panama City (Pacific) to Colon (Atlantic). Petra remained Basko the Hostal. The journey was quite straightforward, although this road had suffered greatly from the rains of recent days and weeks. Whole sections were washed away and only temporarily restored. My first stop in Colon, the Office of Wilhelmsen Ships Service (S 09 ° 21 903 'W 79 ° 52 844') in the district Manzanillo. Here I got the Bill of Loading (BOL) and other shipping documents with the necessary copies. With these papers, I went to the Customs (N 09 ° 20 771 'W 79 ° 52 700'), where the car was removed from my passport, so that our hobby and I could leave the country on separate paths. Then even the ride to the port Cristóbal (N 09 ° 21 129 'W 79 ° 54 177').
Unfortunately, I had no GPS data and with the rough map of the agency, I moved me. I missed the branch at a fork in the road and was always coming on, in the critical districts of Colon. The slums of Panama City are already depressing But in Colon, everything is still hopeless. The whole city is threatened by deterioration. It is a big ghetto hardly habitable, rotten wooden houses. Young people were lounging around in groups on the streets and looked at me with hostility. In her eyes I saw hopelessness, but also a certain arrogance to me. I watched with my modern motorhome just not here. Then I made the mistake and turned because there were no signs, one in the wrong direction into a one-way street. How to get here just out of this? A friendly elderly man showed me the direction to the port. At the next corner again there was a young band, they blocked my way. I slowly drove - now just do not stop here. Then I heard a blow from behind the motorhome. Only at the harbor I saw the reason, the guys have shot stones at the mobile home and one had taken the back wall. I was angry but also glad that there has not been worse.
The delivery of the mobile home in port then ran off quite professionally. It was surveyed and recorded every detail of everything, from the smallest scratch to the lack of cigarette lighter, in a log. After two more vehicle inspections had been completed then well enough different protocols with the same content. I was sent by little window to small window, and each the nice ladies missed my shipping documents a different stamp. I had then given up trying to understand the meaning of the bureaucratic process. And then it was time to say goodbye to our rolling home. I had him in a hall off the port area and was thus the loading on the platform, unfortunately, not self-monitor. Our ship, the Haneburg should be on Friday, leaving two days late in Colon. I could only hope that is caused when parking and when clamping the motor home on the platform no damage. Outside the port entrance of the express bus drove off to Panama City, and after 2 hours I was with Petra and Basko the Hostal.
14/12/2010 - Flight with obstacles
As the taxi driver and we had also opened an additional half hour we were on time at the international airport of Panama City. Basko was quite calm in his air box and watched the hustle and bustle around him with calmness. His tranquilizers slowly began to work.
at check-in then first surprise. "You have no onward ticket, we can not transport them," was the laconic statement of the somewhat haughty employee of the airline. "You are welcome to book with us onward ticket. That was the last thing we wanted. The supervisor of the check-in was much more pleasant to be around. We explained to her that we will leave our motorhome from Colombia, it showed the shipping documents for the shipment and reported briefly on our trip from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego. Quite quickly the young woman had made their decision and instructed her staff to check us. Basko came with his box to the baggage claim and before we knew it was gone on the slide, between the other pieces of luggage.
About 30 minutes late in Panama and a further 3 hours in Bogotá, we have overlooked. There was only a concern if Baskos act nor tranquilizers. Finally we landed in Cartagena, stood at the baggage carousel and waited for our luggage and our Basko. The transport workers to our question about shook Basko, only the head. A dog would not have been on board. We waited patiently until the last piece of luggage was on the tape. Several case always came back later, they were obviously in the wrong plane, but had at least five passengers without checked luggage - and we belonged to it. Basko and our bag was found. For the airline, the service in the completion of a depleted loss protocol, but concrete information I expected and demanded of the staff to investigate where our Basko was forgotten. After several calls, he came back with the information that Basko is still in Bogotá and in the morning is the first machine to Cartagena and brought us to the hotel.
It was a sleepless night and we have suffered with our Basko, the lonely in Bogotá on any of the baggage car had to spend a cold night. The next morning we called almost every hour at the airport. The son of the restaurant operator said some German and helped us with our calls. We felt led us around by the nose, because with every call we got to hear another excuse. Then, after 12:00 clock, Basko had arrived in Cartagena and again we had the assurance that he will be in no later than one hour to the hotel. At 02:00 clock we pulled out of patience.
We drove to the airport, rushed past the security guard who tried to stop us in vain in baggage handling and there made our anger properly Air. That no one understood us, because we have cursed in German, was secondary. The employees and especially the head of the claims offices, the verschaukelt us half the day had were intimidated, frightened and visibly. Our Basko was taken, but he was happy only act on the reunion with us. He certainly had not understood why we have him locked up for almost 24 hours in the box and were gone. We also think that he was in this period with neither food nor water supplies. Petra was overjoyed, but I am still angry. As a small satisfaction I have recovered the full fare for Basko and because of my stubbornness also obtained. Meanwhile our Basko had also recovered from the strains. He was healthy and alert as ever.
That was again went well. But what we will experience in the port of Cartagena?
23.12.2010 - We are complete again
To make it short, it was with picked up our motorhome from the port of Cartagena no problems, apart times of the circumstance as that the ship only arrived on Wednesday, 22.12.2010, ie almost a week late, in Cartagena. In Panama, we were aware of the Agency receive a checklist for vehicle pick-up. 11 points had to work to contact many different departments and organize the import of the mobile home to Customs. We have chosen this time for the Easy Way, the easy way out, and Manfred Alwardt charged. Manfred is a German who has lived 25 years in Cartagena and operates an agency. And Manfred is an original, a little getting used to, but an absolute rascal. He knows all the tricks of the trade. After nearly 5 hours we had the motorhome out of the harbor and out in Colombia introduced regularly. We met other travelers for the same process required 2 days and more. We have also saved more powerful at the port charges. So, Manfred was absolutely worth the money.
afternoon on the 12/23/2010, the day before Christmas, we were complete again. We cleaned our rooms and slept the first night back in your own bed - what a treat. Now we also had the peace of us to reflect on the upcoming Christmas. The successful passage to South America this year was our joint Christmas present.
Christmas Eve we spent at the invitation of the owner of the Hotel Bella Vista. As usual in Colombia, celebrated Christmas with family and friends. By 22:00 I was clock Christmas menu served. Poultry, pork and beef, meatloaf, salads and side dishes were put on the table, a dessert rounded out the feast, and then rang Latin American rhythms. It was only around midnight, all wished Feliz Navidad - Merry Christmas and exchanged gifts. It was for us, totally unexpected, a little attention here.
The next day we used to make our hobby again and ready to explore the fabulous beautiful colonial city of Cartagena. Some say it was the most beautiful city in South America, the highlight of Colombia, it is but sure. By a thick fortress walls surrounded, which was built after the attack of the pirates with Francis Drake, the old town looks like 300 years ago. Colorful facades stilted, balcony railings, entrance gates made of solid wood with wrought iron fittings - were at each corner of the old town to visit it interesting. The churches looked like they were decorated with icing. In the narrow cobblestone streets pushed their carts to the nearest fruit vendor customers and countless street vendors roamed the old city. They offered all sorts of, fruit juice, cotton candy, chips, and especially Tinto, the strong black coffee. We fell in Cartagena and left the city only reluctantly, but Colombia has so much to see and our visa is valid for only 60 days.
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