26.09.2010 - Antigua and the market in Chichicastenango
With a hearty "Buenos días Bernd. ¿Cómo está usted? "I was greeted on the first day of our English course friendly. Sandra, my personal English teacher, had already prepared everything, so we could start without delay. Petra also had been with Hugo, her teacher, published and taught the first greeting sentences. The 4 hours of intensive teaching flew by and at noon we were smoking their heads. Since it did not matter that we have been praised by our teachers. I think they just wanted to keep us happy. In the coming days, there was not much easier, we struggled with vocabulary, with basic grammar and pronunciation. In the afternoon we tried our newly acquired knowledge in the market or in the city to apply.
After the first week we have then no further Grammatikpaukerei and talked almost exclusively with our teachers, so far as it allowed our limited vocabulary. Often we had to finish unfinished sentence in English or make ourselves understood with a drawing. Sandra was very interested in Germany and I've learned a lot about life in Guatemala. It was shocking to learn that 25 percent of people less than U.S. $ 1 per day available have to live another 57 percent Of less than $ 2 U.S.. 30 percent are illiterate, 70 percent of working age between 16 and 50 are unemployed. Child labor, crime and drug use are increasing and a corrupt state apparatus paralyzing the economic and social development in addition.
Unfortunately include the indigenous, they make up about 50 percent of the population of the country, the poorest and most oppressed community in Guatemala. With crafts and trade, they try to earn some Quetzales to earn a modest living. They are too proud to beg. Most belong to one of the many Mayan tribes all of which have preserved their tradition. They dress in traditional costumes, still revere their Mayan gods and speak their own language. are 21 different Mayan languages in Guatemala, some are almost forgotten. Sun Itzá is spoken by just 300 people. are records of this language are rare.
The dress of Mayan women can not be surpassed in color. Almost everything is hand-woven and often still stained with traditional dyes. On the colorful Indian markets of the highlands, you can see the Maya in their traditional clothing. The most famous market in Chichicastenango, it is his colorful varieties hard to beat and a must for Guatemalareisende. We wanted this market, of course, also experience.
From Antigua we took a van to Chichi, as the city is mentioned here. Long before the town saw the indigenous people who flocked to the market. Some had loaded their merchandise to small carts, but mostly they wore on the head or the back. The market itself was a vast collection of stalls and hawkers. It was just everything you expect from a Guatemalan market. The smell of leather and plastic, mixed fruit, flowers and spices and the smell sizzling food stalls was to be a very special blend, which covers around the church of Santo Tomás of a pungent smoke.
The church was built in 1540 by the Dominicans on the steps of an ancient Mayan temple to the detainees in their pagan beliefs Maya at all to bring in the Catholic Church. The 18 stages were bumpy, as if burnt to pre-Columbian times, copal resin, deposited small offerings to the gods and muttered prayers. A procession of Cofradías, which are religious dignitaries of the Maya tribes wore just their patron saints of the market and back into the church. Others set fire to the indigenous Inside the church, candles in thin, they sprinkled petals and pine needles on the ground and wetted them with holy water and brandy. Each flower color, and each offering has its very own importance.
From the top steps of the church steps, we had a good view of the market. From here we also get some pictures with a telephoto lens, photography is also undesirable. We left the hustle and bustle and the foreign culture a little work on us before we brought the van back on the Adventure Pass road to Antigua.
13.10.2010 - The Pacaya volcano
We had been living in Antigua us quite well. Before long we had made some nice acquaintances, we were invited and Petra was at a BBQ with salads points. Interesting were the conversations with Gary, an American from California who lives with his wife Debra in Antigua. He was the first American who has commented positively in conversation with me about President Obama. The Dane Danni and Lars just came from South America and had many useful tips for us, and the Austrian director of our regular restaurant told us the restaurant scene in Antigua and characteristics of the Guatemalan cuisine.
The days passed quickly. After the English lessons usually a short walking tour or a visit to the big market was announced. In the afternoon the school will always organized a trip to the area. The most interesting trip was to climb the Pacaya volcano. He is one of the most active volcanoes in the world, only in May this year, he broke out the last time. Ash and sand were thrown up to Guatemala City, and laid there, paralyzed air traffic. Thousands of people fled their homes or were evacuated. Meanwhile, the volcano had calmed down, but the fear of the next outbreak is present. San Vicente Pacaya, the small village at the foot of the volcano, many still remembered the last outbreak. Volcanic sand lined the streets and many a house was uninhabited.
Shortly after the town ended the road from where we were on foot. Our small group was accompanied by a guide and armed Parkranchern. This precaution was necessary because there were always groups and attacks on tourists. Several horse leader offered us their animals for the climb - but we had our pride. We wanted to reach the summit of Pacaya on his own. The path was steep and strenuous. After nearly two hours of climbing we had overcome almost 1,000 meters in altitude. The limit of the vegetation had been reached, from here there was only sand and lava rock. The wind blew dust and sand in our face. Sulfur-containing flue making breathing difficult. Slowly it was from the ground warmer. When trying to pick up a stone I was terrified and ran it fall again - it was hot. As far as the eye could see, we saw only dead rock, boulders and rising sulphurous vapors. We found ourselves in a strange inhospitable environment. The road became more onerous, the wind is always, so we had trouble to keep us in the legs. We clambered over sharp lava and slag mountains. After another hour, the goal was achieved. We stood just below the summit of a volcanic column and saw the inside of the earth. Hot air hit us in the face and eyes to read only from a certain location. In some meters below the bubbling red-hot magma. Only then we realized right that we have run on the way here just a few meters above this magma bubble and have felt its power. Every time there might be a new eruption. The Pacaya is permanently active since 1965.
Our guide it did not take to roast over the volcanic column a few marshmallows before we return competed. The descent was not much easier. In light of the setting sun we had again a fantastic view of the Agua volcano located in Antigua, and then we were surrounded by darkness and silence. We switched off our flashlights and walked silently to the shuttle bus. The impressions of that day had to first be processed.
10/19/2010 - Adios Guatemala
After over 5 weeks in Guatemala, we took leave of this scenic, but very poor and unstable country. Most of the time we have in Antigua, one of the few touristy centers in the country, spent. The small colonial town, nestled between the volcanoes Agua, Acatenango and the ever smoke ejecting Fuego, had it done to us. Almost every day we were in the old way, the indigenous have dominated life can effect us and we wanted a nice restaurant in the evening for dinner. Even the daily fireworks, often it started in the morning at 4:00 clock bothered us no more, since we knew that an old tradition is maintained. With rockets and firecrackers, the prayers are carried to heaven faster.
Antigua, was due to the high police presence, quite sure of what is not around necessarily be said. Just a few days later a group of tourists on a tour of a coffee plantation was attacked and robbed. We had previously had any bad experiences, the more getting used to it was that accompanied us on all hikes and excursions outside the city's tourist police.
The departure of the new friends was cordial. Debra extra organized a farewell party for us and spoiled us with local specialties. go to Gary's good advice, but not through Guatemala City to turn previously sounded to us still in our ears when we were already caught up in Guatemala City. We had the branch missed. The city is, like the whole country, marked by poverty. Few urban areas are safe, clean and modern. Here lives the upper class in Guatemala.
We fought our way through the smoldering cars with old and dilapidated buses stopped up the maze of streets. No sign showed us the way and our navigation system was not much help. Often, it lost the satellite link or sent us in the direction of a locked-way street. At some point we were still arriving at the other end of Guatemala City. The main road to the east was in a very good condition, and so we went on that day until shortly from Honduras.
10/22/2010 - Honduras: Maya culture and German "diplomacy"
Honduras, El Salvador, in addition, the dubious distinction of being the most violent country in the world. 67 murders per 100,000 last year (compared to Mexico = 14; USA = 5.4; Germany = 0.86) attest to the high potential for violence. We wanted to pass through Honduras very quickly.
The border crossing at El Florido was uncomplicated, but very time consuming. The border station was under reconstruction, and so the pent-up truck on the narrow road between the barricades. When a vehicle would go through, had umrangieren everyone else. Constantly some driver was wanted, the car was in your way. We had hell to take care that all documents have been issued correctly. Only on my mobile home on the explicit intervention of the Guatemalan side was played correctly from the passport. It had simply been forgotten.
After the border we wondered about the relative cleanliness and fairly decent roads. At a swimming pool, we spent the rest of the day and night, guarded by the watchman with his large-caliber weapon. He showed us very proud of his gun and also fired the same time from a test shot. We were very bad. Hopefully we will not be mistaken for a burglar at night, when we have to still get away with Basko. In Honduras is to carry such weapons to normal and everything was guarded. Even on the soft drink Coca-Cola truck was an armed guard. On the night we heard sporadic shots in the distance, But nothing happened to us was so we could the next day the tourist highlights of Honduras, the ruins of Copán visit.
Copán is the southern Maya village in Central America. It is characterized by absolute artfully crafted columns and the magnificent hieroglyphic stairway, from the biggest carved in stone writings of the Maya. The 63 steps are described with 2200 characters, which represent the history of over 200 years, Copán. Much of Copán was of 13 Rulers in order, delivering a funny name "18 Rabbit" (Waxaklahun Ubah), we quickly realized. Pleasant, we felt that it on the excavation site no annoying dealer was - ugly was the high ticket price. Copán was more expensive than all of us together in Mexico visited Maya sites.
already waited at the car park of the guards, we had asked to watch something on our car. One hand on the ladder we should show how seriously he took his job. When we then gave him $ 2 for him it was like Christmas and birthday in one day. His eyes lit up and he thanked me again and again. Then he locked nor unnecessarily from the street so we could freely travel from the parking lot.
We drove from Copan to San Pedro Sula, actually a detour, but we were sure that this road is paved. With emerging dark we headed to a hotel and were pleasantly surprised at how friendly we were accepted. We were allowed to stay for free at the guarded hotel parking lot, were able to use pool, shower and internet and in the restaurant, we have virtually no means eaten. When we saw the bill we suppose a calculation error - but it was all correct. Our dinner with drinks cost € not by 7.
The next morning we started very early, we wanted to create a large range. That we succeeded then, because from San Pedro Sula had the German road standard. A few kilometers later we saw the reason, a poster informed that it was built as an aid project by the EU and Germany. So we came up pretty fast to Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras, where it was left to continue the road to the Honduran fate. The four-lane super road ended at a massive excavation of a diversion not a trace. So turn back. After a random walk through construction sites and slums we had done it, we were driving on the main road towards Nicaragua. Unfortunately our joy was short-lived, a few kilometers there was a police check. The trick worked with the friendly wave and go slowly this time. As if my nerves were not already stretched enough - we were rausgewinkt.
After the inspection of import license and papers of the mobile home we were informed about our "offense". We had, as alleged in Honduras, a law requires no additional reflectors affixed to the car. Converted to U.S. $ 40 cost it should. Now, $ 40 no sum that would have made us poor, but I did not play this farce. In Honduras, some cars fall apart fast, the tires are worn and the lighting does not work, but Reflectors have to be. In contrast to that our RV all current regulations, we have lights on the side and oversized reflectors on the rear. For me it was: I pay no Lempira. When I could see after a long discussion with the police not give in, I changed the tactics. I now wanted to talk only with the jefe, the boss. That this was understood a word of English is not a disadvantage for me. Friendly and in a quiet voice, I welcomed the boss introduced me by name and told all sorts of things in German. No one understood me! Again and again I used the words "Diplomatico" and "Embajado" (Message). I wanted to express, that my car complies with the rules and I would have gotten this information from the embassy. My comparison was with the word "Diplomatico" increasingly uncertain. Now, after I hung up. I could hardly keep back my laughter when I pointed to the big "D" on the rear bumper and again, "Diplomatico" murmured. The Chief had swallowed the bait. Within moments I had my documents again and was adopted with a handshake and salute.
Petra had remained in the car and asked me for my return, how much I had paid. Me would actually be more . Know In continuing the trip to Nicaragua for a long time and we laughed heartily at the tricks the police and our "diplomacy".
26.10.2010 - Nicaragua: Managua, Granada, and smoking Abyss
The border crossing between Honduras and Nicaragua was the most complicated in our journey. It was not to realize what system was used here and where we all had to get a stamp. Immediately after the first barrier, we were compelled by a dozen tugs to take their services. We had to repeatedly reject in no uncertain terms, before they realized that was to bring with us nothing. If already using at the border, the official then an agent. At this border, we took this outside help for the first time to deliver. After two hours we had the border formalities behind us and they rolled on the well-developed Interamericana to Managua.
We realized not only that we had already arrived in the capital. At the Main street were ramshackle huts and small houses or land were uncultivated and overgrown by weeds. On the median of the road grazing sheep, goats and donkeys. "It goes right to the National Palace," Petra said, suddenly, I refused to believe it first. Amidst this, rural idyll 'was really, Area Monumental', the center of Managua with the dilapidated cathedral, the National Palace, the Theatre and the new presidential palace. A few hundred meters already started the slums of Managua. After a brief inspection I did, past the cathedral, nor the beautiful Lake Managua run when I passers-by and a security guard of the cathedral was warned not to go that way. My little camera, my money and I would not even safe there. So much uncertainty in this city, though I'm even in the representative center of Managua, not a single policeman seen. "The rather stand on the road and check tourists," said Petra, as I was after two hours at the mobile home. She'd have preferred for safety reasons to stay in the car. Also on the onward journey through the city we have seen a reasonable neighborhood. The city has to offer really is not much. But you should know that Managua in 1931 and 1972 earthquake almost completely destroyed by evil and the catastrophic effects of Hurricane Mitch in 1998 still not been overcome.
We liked it here, we wanted very quickly continue towards Granada. Halfway Nacaraguas an attraction, the volcano Masaya, with its ever-sulfur steam spewing Santiago crater.
The visit was made us easily, we could take the motor home to the crater rim. After getting us already watering eyes and scratched the sulfur smoke in the throat. "A maximum of 20 minutes spent" had recommended to the Ranger at the entrance, "the wind is blowing today the sulfur haze directly to the parking lot. " With the supplied gas masks, it went quite well. We looked at the smoking hell. Even the English conquerors called the volcano, La Boca del Infierno 'and put a cross on the crater rim, to ward off the devil. The cross still stands today.
We spent the night match at the Bomberos (fire brigade) in Macaya. She proudly shows us their vehicles and were almost euphoric when they threw her jewelry, an old decommissioned in Germany MAN fire truck showed.
The next day we drove to Granada. It is probably the most beautiful city in Nicaragua. The historical center boasts well-restored colonial buildings and a beautiful cathedral. The city has a style and ambience, even though we saw only a few meters away from the true center of the living conditions of the Nicaraguans. Nicaragua, Haiti, the poorest country in Latin America. We were disappointed by the Centro Turístico on Lake Nicaragua. Despite the entrance fee was well-located Park a dilapidated and dirty impression.
The trip by the Inter-Americana in San Juan del Sur, we have not looked back. It's a really nice clean coastal town on the Pacific, with some typical Restaurants and a beautiful sand beach. We stood with our hobby, on the waterfront. Next to us sat on a bench a young family with 2 children. In the evening the father asked us for some water for his children. In conversation, we learned that the family had come in hope of work, with the last money here. Work, there was unfortunately no, and now they tried to get back to their home village. The modesty of the parents and the way the two children have been busy for hours with a broken car and a tattered doll touched me. I think the donation for breakfast and the bus home was money well spent. Not a word I had the family begging, even though we were very rich in their eyes and they lacked the basic necessities. The next morning the parents came again to the mobile home and thanked him so heartily, that it has been almost embarrassing.
We left Nicaragua with a good feeling.
29/10/2010 - Costa Rica: bratwurst, sauerkraut and black bread at the Arenal
The departure from Nicaragua was really stressful. On the spacious grounds of the border crossing at Peñas Blancas was chaos. We got no information, without paying for it. Even for the normal forms would leave the traffickers have $ 2 U.S.. Our ambition was aroused. Not a cent of the tractors! We wanted to do it alone. Two hours later we were standing at the exit switch and then the procedure with the RV export from Nicaragua. One can hardly imagine themselves as Europeans, imported red tape with which every car at the border and then exported and again. The same procedure applies also for the inhabitants of Central America who want a ride in her car to the neighboring country.
After two more hours of the export form with numerous stamps, signatures, and check mark. It looks good, thought I drove and optimistic to the barrier.
The official, however, recognized immediately that was missing a stamp. So, turn and back. The large trucks had umrangieren, so we came through with the camper. "Where is the key officials with the last punch?", Again no answer, only the offer, "$ 10 is all done." No, certainly not now. On the third little window, I was already finds - stamp on it and down to Costa Rica.
In Costa Rica we received a different world. Everything was orderly, clear, free - and slow. Typical public service culture, I thought, and was therefore probably not far wrong. But good officials are also very thorough, and so we had the first time in Canada show the health card of Basko.
20 kilometers behind the border lies the small town of La Cruz. There we have the fabulous sum of 150,000 colones (Course 1: 720) lifted off and made the first contact with the miserable streets of Costa Rica. We wanted to spend the night on the Pacific, but then had to apply after 10 miles on the muddy track in order not to risk us getting stuck on this lonely road. In addition to the police station we found a safe, if not so idyllic, overnight stay.
In Liberia, the first major city to the border, dampened enthusiasm we offer and the cleanliness of the supermarket, a look at the receipt, our passion again - Costa Rica is not a cheap destination.
We also needed to Arenal (Laguna de Arenal) and fought our way through streets until after Tilaran hunchback. Here the road starts at the lake shore. In Nuevo Arenal Once our interim target was reached. We knocked on, Tom's German Bakery 'to have and, despite closing time, a warm welcome. Tomas operates its German bakery and restaurant for over 15 years, he had much to tell and some good advice for us. On arrival there was bratwurst with sauerkraut, fresh brown bread and Paulaner wheat beer.
on the community's place the lake we could camp for free, had water, electricity and daily fresh baked goods out of Tom's bakery. We needed a small break and spent 6 days at sea. With writing travel reports, sorting of photos and planning our time together with Kathi the days passed. Then it was time to break camp. We must at 05 November in San Jose on time at the airport are available.
