07/27/2010 - 27.08 .2010: Central Highlands - silver wealth and colonial heritage 
28.07.2010 - The silver city of Taxco
The road from Acapulco to Taxco, the first destination on our journey through the central Mexican Highland rises sharply after the same coast. We crossed the Sierra Madre del Sur, a 1000 km long mountain range that stretches along the Pacific coast of southern Mexico. Here, as in the central highlands, prevail throughout the year pleasant climatic conditions. The moist heat of the coast was once behind us.
reached after a pleasant drive we Taxco. Place shortly before the city to spend the night we made the mistake and are on the same evening went to the city. There is only one through street, by a car of our size can be driven on. The town itself nestles on the slopes of Mount El-Atach and has such a narrow and steep roads that come through just scooters or small cars. In the village there was no parking for our RV, and after a nerve-stop and go driving we had done it after an hour - we were standing at the other end of town, but still without parking or accommodation. Meanwhile it was already dark night.
In the next village we found a small grocery store, Before we could spend the night. In the morning we were woken up already before 06:00 clock from the noisy traffic on the road. Nearly two hours later we started the second Attempt to find a parking spot in Taxco. A slightly bad feeling we had when we our hobby at the still closed tourist information, across the only 3 car parking spaces, and shuts off with a beetle-taxi drove to the Zocalo. Only on this adventurous journey through the winding streets of the old town, we realized that we would also use a little car came through the city. The streets are so narrow that can just drive a car - but there is oncoming traffic. The taxi driver knew exactly the places which he had to honk before the curve and where the alternatives are few. On some sharp curves, he had to come back several times to even come on. In this city, with its steep cobbled streets, the rear-engined VW Beetle is the only sensible vehicle. We also saw no other taxi in Taxco.
had arrived at the Zocalo, we wonder before the landmark of the city, the church of Santa Prisca. Built of reddish sandstone, with richly ornamented facade and bell towers, it is a masterpiece of colonial church architecture in the Churrigueresque style a kind of Hispanic Rococo. The church was built by French immigrants in Taxco and finance have come to great wealth silver baron Don José de la Borda, and made the city a gift.
Even inside the church is lavishly equipped. Twelve carved and gold-plated altars on either side of the nave, magnificent paintings and gilded altar testify to the former wealth of this city and the mine owners.
left after visiting the church we are driving us through the maze of narrow streets. The city is completely listed, it seemed to us like a big museum. As well as boasting colonial buildings like the Casa Borda, the home of church founder, Casa Figuera, or the Casa Humboldt, where the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived for a time were also the less spectacular details that Taxco so attractive.
There are the beautiful tiled facades, shady patios and courtyards, ornate ironwork and many shops and restaurants that are hidden in the nested worldwide and to recognize sometimes only on second glance was.
went to the interesting but exhausting tour of this fascinating town's silver back in the beetle-taxi to the tourist info. Our hobby was still standing there completely unscathed, the friendly staff at the Information kept a close eye on our motorhome.
08/02/2010 - Valle de Bravo
from Taxco, we went to the Mex Toluca 55 in the direction as us a sign saying "Mirador" (viewpoint) was curious. We turned off the road and were close to the edge of a canyon, which is described in any guidebook.
It was a great view! The steep cliffs in the distance lost in wooded slopes and deep down the river was a brown belt to see who had created this landscape millions of years. We quickly agreed that we wanted to stay at this beautiful place. The next morning, the canyon was filled with early morning fog, which dissolved with the rising sun and the view of the leisurely flowing river released.
Rancheros Two were from the neighboring house to greet us. Although they lived here they appeared equally impressed by the unique panorama as we do.
About midday we drove on. About Toluca, past the 4632 m high volcano Nevado de Toluca, Valle de Bravo we arrived, a small colonial city located at the reservoir Avandaro.
Valle de Bravo, especially in the capitals, a popular Nahreiseziel and especially this weekend, the city seemed to be bursting at the seams. The old city was clogged with cars, some streets were closed to events and countless people strolled through the narrow streets.
We had once again picked the right day - it was Sunday afternoon when we struggled in the middle of a motorcade through the city. Despite the narrow streets, there was no parking prohibition on the roadside. What helped us in this situation, certainly well-intentioned warnings of some passers-by that the other streets were too narrow for our motorhome. We could not stop nor turn back - we had to through. Twice Petra got out to get me to teach very tight spots, and then we had finally made it.
We were happy when we had parked on the beautifully situated campsite on the southern shore of our hobby. The funny campsite owner who hit a really great joke for us - he asked why we are not the ring-road driving around the city. The answer just did our navigation system! Well, now we know at least Valle de Bravo by our city tour. Compensated
we were the magnificent mountain lake. Surrounded by forests and small villages, he reminded us of the northern Italian Lakes. Its beautiful location, the clean air and pleasant climate in 2500 had m height, dressed in addition to the many day and weekend tourists, even some super-rich, which could be built on the lakeshore exclusive vacation homes. Most of these villas are hidden behind high walls and are only from the sea to look.
came during my morning walk with Basko I to Antonio, an entrepreneur from San Miguel de Allende, in conversation. Spontaneously, he invited us to a cruise on the lake. Past Valle de Bravo and the surrounding villas, we circled the lake and looked so also undeveloped and unspoilt part of the lake shore with gentle landscapes, waterfalls and the breeding grounds of various water birds.
With Antonio we had once learned to know the typical Mexican hospitality. The afternoon we spent together, until his family to leave Antonio urged. He had to take care of his business and we spent three relaxing days at sea.
05th - 12.08.2010 - Splendid colonial cities
went after the short break in Valle de Bravo, we are on tour of some colonial cities on the outskirts of Mexico City: Morelia, Guanajuato and Zacatecas were on our agenda. These three cities are UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they represent in the same way, the exuberant English style, combined with the technical skills of the Indians. Magnificent churches, splendid palaces and town houses, whose uniqueness can be seen only when we look in the shady courtyard can throw with a fountain and an open gallery, there are in all three cities in abundance. And yet each of these cities with their own character and a tourist feature.
Morelia received us with aristocratic sobriety. The colonial buildings in the historic center consists of unplastered stone and give the city a rather cool character. To, from reddish-brown trachyte underlines the cathedral was built with clear lines of this city character. Inside is a monumental organ of the German organ builder Walcker of Ludwigsburg.
Impressed
us Palacio Clavijero have in the design of the Jesuits, now a museum of modern Mexican art, and the Colegio de San Nicolás de Hidalgo, the second oldest Jesuit school in Latin America. The historic building is now used by the university.
During our walking tour to the notes on the top attractions of the tourist environment could not be overlooked. Ca. 60 km east of the city, the wintering grounds of monarch butterflies, extreme migrant butterflies in the world. From mid-November, affecting several million of these butterflies from Canada and the USA Coming in here after they have traveled a distance of over 3000 km. Unfortunately, we were for this unique play at the wrong time in Morelia - it went without detours on to Guanajuato.
Long before the town we were stopped by tourists tugs to us with offers for hotels and restaurants showered on us from continuing the trip in the city warned and when their services Guides offered. Completely useless would such a Help not been, because there is something special in Guanajuato. Squeezed into a dry river valley and between the surrounding mountains could solve traffic problems, except that many roads run a tunnel under the city. The drive through this tunnel maze is breathtaking, even more so with a motor home. Our guide said: "The tunnels are all connected and intertwined, as the intestines in the abdomen. A trip by car through Guanajuato is like a ghost and the roller coaster ride. "
were some of the old silver mines in road tunnels developed that have the side only a height of 2.50 m and are marked lousy. We are through all the tunnels in the middle, so on two tracks down, so as not to conflict with the prominent rocks on the side tunnel ceiling. It was really exciting and I would have taken every detour, only to again not having to go through this maze. The final piece to the trailer park, we drove from summary and a one way street in the wrong direction. The oncoming cars were on the mountain in order to allow us passage, the driver waved to us kindly. What we would have been in these situation in Germany?
The historic center of town was pretty good from the trailer park within walking distance. Now the chaotic road tunnel also had another advantage, because they could also use as a pedestrian. Some abbreviation was thus possible. Guanajuato has no ordered pattern of streets, as usual, most colonial cities. One can hardly run because the city's attractions, such as the University, the Basilica and the Theater Juárez serve as orientation. So we could drive us completely without a map, through the narrow cobbled streets, small squares discovered again and again with a fountain or hidden cafes. Some streets are so narrow that can kiss the inhabitants of the houses opposite, when they lean out the window. Also worth seeing are the interlaced houses that are on rocky or arches above the streets and overhanging balconies that float freely through the urban canyons.
From Papila Monument, high above the rooftops of the city, we had the best view of the churches and palaces, but also the colorful houses, the character characterize this city.
The most unusual in Guanajuato, and also the tourist attraction is the bizarre mummy gallery. should be reused as a cemetery in 1865 at the old graves, it was discovered that the ancient corpses decayed, but because of the dry earth and mineral salt were well preserved. The Mexicans have a very own way of dealing with death, and they exhibited the mummies in a museum. This macabre exhibition is visited every year by thousands of foreign tourists, but mainly by families from all over Mexico. We were a bit confused about the issued Mummies with hair, clothes and some frightening facial expressions. The Mexicans looked the most different, they were even with small children in the show and posed for the family album.
We drove to Zacatecas. Petra was gradually tired of the old cities, but I was able to prevail with the promise that it would be the last tour of the city first. Just as Taxco and Guanajuato Zacatecas owes its wealth to the silver mines. For over 200 years has been promoted in Mexico, almost half the world's silver production. One of the most productive mines Mine was the legendary El Eden, were promoted from the incredible amounts of silver in 1583, but also iron, zinc, lead and gold. Today, El Eden Mine is a visitor, is also shown in the, had what the price of local slaves to pay for the silver wealth. Under horrible conditions, the indigenous people, including many children, forced to work in the mines to win the fabulous treasures for the English crown, and a few silver barons.
The city grew rapidly and showed unrestrained wealth. At best, this is at the Cathedral be identified. It has an in ornamental decoration almost exploding facade and thus the absolute highlight of the Mexican Churriguerismus is dar. The abundance of ornaments, flowers and vines, between figures of the apostles and the 16 columns, is little more to offer and demonstrates the masterful Indian Masonry .
Zacatecas also has a local mountain, the 2700 m high Cerro de la Bufa. The cable car went up quickly from where we have a great panoramic view of the "squeezed between barren mountains city with its towering churches, their crooked Streets and the houses had nested. From here you could see the problems of the city does not - very quietly penetrated the chants of the mine workers, who demonstrated outside the governor's palace, and their inadequate living and working conditions carefully made, up to here. Zacatecas is a modern city with industrial and research facilities in the suburbs, some problems are as old as the city itself and still not solved in principle.
After three impressive colonial cities we longed for some peace in nature - I Petra it had promised, too.
14.08.2010 - National Park Sierra de Organos
The tip of the Swiss couple Maya and Hans us was just right. After our tour through Mexico's colonial cities rich in silver and we were looking forward to the National Park Sierra de Organos. Only in 2000 at only 11 sq km area was declared a National Park. Famous it was much earlier. The breathtaking landscape of desert, steppe, rocky cliffs and unique rock formations like organ pipes was the ideal backdrop for hundreds of Western films, many with John Wayne. We were fascinated by the landscape that had at any time of day and the changing light conditions differently. The first day we were all alone in the park. During our walk between the towering cliffs, we observed many eagles and vultures, we saw absolute rest - it was pure nature.
came at the weekend, several Mexican families, packed with everything for a hearty picnic is needed. We had already withdrawn the evening some time in our RV, Petra was already in bed when someone knocked on our door around 23:00 clock. Coster and his wife wanted to invite us to dinner. A little disappointed they were already, as we, having regard to the late hour, friendly refused - they renewed their invitation, but now for the next day.
looked after our little morning hike we Coster already waiting in the distance in our motor home - now we could not refuse. He and the entire extended family, were pleased to entertain us with all kinds of Mexican food and drinks. We had on our trip, our family and talk about Germany and Coster reported by Mexican coexistence. Every weekend the family meets with friends and spend a day together, often on the beautiful picnic sites in the area or the national park. This family bond has a very practical benefit. People help each other in the many everyday problems, making it difficult to rely on artisans and service providers. is
To the common weekend eaten everything. It is incredible what quantities are in soup, tacos, tamales, stuffed tortillas, Tostades and meat on the table. Given the ubiquitous guacamole and, of course, not beer or tequila may be missing. After our breakfast courtesy Petra wanted to contribute something for lunch. With a large frying pan fried potatoes, a bowl of pasta salad and grilled sausages with German mustard, she had landed a direct hit. Umpteen times she had to explain how the salad was done and how to make fried potatoes.
Shortly after noon, the Preparations for the dinner began and we saw tons of beef, prepared for the grill, we have withdrawn discreetly. It has benefited us but not much. The first thing we brought our immediate neighbors, a young family with children, a "sample" from the grill. With the stuffed peppers, sausages and grilled meat we would have well served three days - and then also Coster came with an equally large "sample". We could not refuse.
The following days went back on peace and Basko was pleased with the extra daily serving of meat. After 4 days in the countryside, we packed up and were on our way. Even before the park exit we met a pickup. The driver stopped at our level, a beer in our direction was friendly and invited us for a picnic. It was probably our frightened facial expression than the verbal rejection that caused him to continue on after a brief greeting.
21.08.2010 - San Miguel de Allende
Zacatecas Until we went back to a known distance and then turned onto Mex 57th About quirlische San Luis Potosi San Miguel de Allende, we reached. In the last 20 km to the city announced on already, that this business is done primarily U.S. dollars. On the street, lined up a sales booth at the next, but with exceptional products. Since there were antiques, old cars and tractors, antique household items and many other things that light up the eyes of the Americans. Even an old tank was for sale.
few miles further on, just outside the city, we turned to Balneario Escondido from. We spent a whole day in the warm mineral springs, and could also stand still on the private premises overnight. The next morning we drove to the trailer park in the center of San Miguel. Good thing we had a detailed route description. We were able to drive around the city and easily reached from the ring road from the trailer park.
San Miguel is a must for Mexico travelers. The picturesque colonial city with the suffix of the Mexican freedom fighter Ignacio de Allende offers no great singles sites, it is rather the harmonious overall impression and the medieval atmosphere, determine the appeal of the city. This, and year-round spring-like climate in 1900 m altitude were the reasons that are increasingly in the past settled artists and wealthy Americans here. The dollar has not hurt the city, leaving aside the exploding real estate prices. Most of the town houses are expertly reconstructed and turned into shops, restaurants and apartments. Above all, the unusual Parroquia, the main church and also the symbol of San Miguel.
you stroll through the streets, then you see each time a different picture. Where we have not seen the day before a sober locked wooden gate, the next day, a medieval-looking restaurant, or a playful shady courtyard with a fountain and a gallery could be seen. This was not just us so. Barbara and Joachim, two Pan-American travelers who are fascinated for almost a year ago by San Miguel and have interrupted their trip here, shared this opinion with us. Joachim, now a San Miguel Insider, showed us the obvious and the hidden beauties of the city.
At Zocalo, next to the Parroquia, has just celebrated a festival again. Old Fire and police cars were set up, could be visited and then drove with a deafening noise of the city. On the other side of the Zocalo just a city commission started with historically dressed city leaders and torch escort. There is always something going on, we said Joachim. San Miguel is celebrated every weekend somewhere and the highlights are the Easter procession and the celebration of Independence Day on 15 September. This year's independence celebrations will be even gigantic, because the 200th Anniversary of the War of Independence and the 100th Anniversary of the Mexican Revolution commits.
How gladly would We stayed until mid-September in San Miguel, but we had again a firm deadline. Our son Felix is at 28.08. to Mexico to travel with us to Guatemala and we were a long time on this time together. We took leave of Barbara and Joachim, which we had spent some nice evenings, and drove to Mexico City.
was on the way or Querétaro, again a great colonial city and UNESCO world cultural heritage and Tula, the ancient capital of the Toltecs, the famous atlases of Tula, the We did not want to miss. Our economy had us still a trick play. Mexican toll roads are relatively expensive and for our motorhome, we always had to pay because of the twin wheels, the even more expensive truck tariff. So we went mostly to public roads that were not bad. But not so of Tula in Mexico. We struggled on bumpy, through construction and close cities. Eventually we had enough of the rocking and took the next ramp to the toll road. After just a few kilometers, the number of body came the whole way. Not all have ups and downs toll terminals, but the toll is often required in the middle of the line. The local knowledge Mexicans avoid the toll by the right Set off and then fly back.
We just had paid our contribution for the construction of the Mexican roads, because we were already back rausgewinkt at a police checkpoint. In Mexico City, there are daily driving restrictions for private vehicles. The ban is based on the final digit of the license plate. I was sure that this Friday was no ban on driving our car, but the specifications were changed. I came the reports of other travelers in mind, had to pay in such a situation, several hundred U.S. dollars. Very pleasantly surprised we were when the policeman told us that there would be no problem for us and we wish you a pleasant journey. We were relieved, yet again, we absolutely have good experience with the Mexican police made.
until late evening we arrived at the trailer park in Teotihuacán, on the outskirts of Mexico City on. Now we had another day to prepare until the arrival of our son.
