28.08.2010 - Mexico City and Teotihuacán
The decision whether the caravan or the "public" drive to Aeropuerto be to pick up our son Felix, had not yet taken, as we the owner of the campsite around noon warmly welcomed. She had some information leaflets on Mexico City and Teotihuacán, and many good tips for us. The simplified, they made the decision for the "public" and it was the right Decision.
In Mexico City, the 25 million inhabitants, is private by high tolls and parking fees and constantly clogged roads and countless construction sites not only expensive but also time-consuming and nerve-wracking. Alternatively, there is provides an excellent bus and metro system. Apart from times of peak hours, where the incredible crowds squeezing into the subway trains, it is an ideal mode of transport. For 3 pesos (less than 20 cents) you could go as far and as often change as you wanted. We also have the reputation that the Metro is uncertain, neither on our first ride even in these Days to confirm. Police and security with their presence contributed to the fact that we felt quite safe. Of course we were also careful, have not used too crowded trains, especially at night and not been on the road.
By bus and metro we were so fast at the Aero Puerto, that pending the arrival of our son still had about an hour. The machine from Paris was on time and then our Felix stood before us, a little exhausted from the long flight, but just as happy as we, and the full expectations of time together.
Next Day there was to tell once more before we will visit the main attraction of Teotihuacan, home of the gods, visited. The ancient Teotihuacán was the capital of Mexico's largest pre-colonial empire, it was the largest city of the ancient Americas, and had its heyday in the years 200-500 than 200,000 residents. It was a Stone Age society at the highest level of development in terms of science, industry and architecture. The decline of the city is unknown. When the Aztecs arrived in 1250 in the Valley of Mexico, Teotihuacán was abandoned at least half a millennium. They could spread their giant buildings and the streets are only 40 meters as a legacy supernatural beings to explain. Thus the myth was created that the city was built by giants and the gods are at home here. They called the town "home of the gods," on Aztec Teotihuacán.
overwhelming Similar to the Aztecs at that time was for us the first impression of the city. At the 2 km long road of the dead are placed on both sides of the ruins of pyramids, altars and palaces of the dignitaries. Highlights, however, the monumental, 70-meter-high Pyramid of the Sun with a footprint of 225 times 225 meters, and the somewhat smaller Pyramid of the Moon. The beautiful views of the entire system should one have of the moon pyramid. After the arduous climb, the levels are unusually high, we were able to enjoy this beautiful panoramic views. The road of the dead was below us and disappeared into the distance. At the end of this ancient avenue, the Citadel is the Templo de Quetzalcoatl, once the residence of the ruler of the city. When we had seen the whole plant and sweaty, thirsty and very tired again arrived at the Pyramid of the Moon once was time for a break. Somehow we had the ambition and then packed but we are still on the great Pyramid of the Sun gekraxelt. The view of the ancient city and the surrounding landscape was fascinating. After no less arduous descent we had really enough.
The next day Mexico City was on the program. A walk through the historic center, the tour of cathedral and government palace and a city tour in an open double-decker bus we procured an overview of the city. Then, on the second day, the mammoth program. The National Museum of Anthropology is one of the most important museums in the world - that is a must for Mexico travelers. The art treasures, peoples and cultures of Mexico are presented here in a great, single exposure, but so versatile and culture is extensive, especially in Mexico as well as the museum itself after 4 hours we were no longer receptive, another day would have been necessary. To distract us from the Zona Rosa, the more cosmopolitan area, and the Colonia Condesa, with its many villas and buildings in the Art Deco and strolled in colonial California.
About Mexico City you could write so much, but this would be beyond the scope of this report. It is important to me at this point to comment on the many stereotypes about this city position. Mexico City is not the smoggy and dirty juggernaut that threatens to choke on its own growth, but a modern, clean, legally sound and well-organized city with numerous parks, a lot of public art and very nice people. Mexico City can compare well with European cities, one sees time on the shabby outskirts of settlements. We were initially not sure whether we will miss the capital city on our itinerary and are now very happy that we let ourselves be influenced by superficial and exaggerated reports. Mexico City is always worth a visit.
02.09.2010 - About Puebla to Oaxaca
once again had the owner of the trailer parks in Teotihuacán valuable tips for us, this time they told us how, without having to use the "Hoy No Circula" streets, east from town. We had that day, due to the combination of our license plate, in and around Mexico City around driving ban.
any problems we reached Puebla and Cholula, located in suburban trailer park. Cholula is one of the oldest cities in America, it was continuously inhabited since about 200 BC to today, and it has a hidden attraction - the largest pyramid in the world in volume. Seven different civilizations have left their mark here and yet the Tepanapa Pyramid, although situated in the heart of the city, not much to see. When the Spaniards 1550, the first chapel on the hill sat the pyramid was already completely covered with earth and overgrown with plants, they had no idea of the religious establishment in their chapel. The present church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, with a highly ornate, traditional Mexican-Baroque design, is from the 19th Century. It was built was after the earlier chapel destroyed by an earthquake. From the square in front of the church has a beautiful view to the volcanoes Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl.
The Pyramid under the church in recent years uncovered in some places and reconstructed. For scientific research into the hills to durchörterte systematically. Today there are over 8,000 meters of tunnel and partially opened to visitors.
Our, next scheduled walk in the old city of Cholula was then literally in the water. Within minutes the sky darkened and it poured with rain. After a continuous run, we reached completely soaked, our motor home. Well, that Felix was a little better shape than we are. He was the first in the hobby and was able to close the roof window in time and prevent the worst. After a hot shower and a glass of tea, we felt well again. While it was raining outside, we made ourselves more in the hobby comfortable and spent the night at the common cards.
The next day, Puebla was on the program. With the Colectivo, a public minibus, we drove into the historic center of Mexican Wolfsburg. The city is now heavily dominated by the VW plant, many well-paying jobs, tax revenue and a degree of prosperity, the positive effects.
felt in the historic inner city, we immediately well. Pulsing with the simple business of Puebla. In the lovingly restored houses are countless restaurants and shops that offer the traditional way in certain streets, the same goods. We walk through streets with shoe shops, one beside the other, then come and furniture hardware. This has the advantage that you can compare the products without any major way, and Buy. Impressed
us the cathedral has the Zocalo. She is, after Mexico City, the second largest cathedral in Mexico - but the inside provided almost more harmonious and more valuable. Her, two 70 meter high bell towers are the highest in the country. With a beautiful view of Cathedral and Zocalo, we then sat on the balcony of a restaurant and watch the bustling life. Shoeshine offered their services, flower and balloon sellers courted customers, businessmen hurried to their next appointment and the school children in uniforms to their uniform, teasing each other on the way home.
The return trip by bus to Cholula was an experience. Regardless, the driver sped through holes and Topes, everything rattled and we were surprised that the old Mercedes buses to these years of torture at all and went not already have long been broken apart. At the trailer park in Cholula, it was still a surprise to the Swiss Maja and Hans, we had met in Guanajuato, stood with her four-wheel-Mercedes next to us. Some beers we shared experiences and plans, and spent a nice evening together.
The next morning we started to Oaxaca. The trip, planned for one day lasted, then twice as long because the road was in a catastrophic state. In many places they had broken away from the slipped slope or partially buried. rained at one point in front of us a landslide on the road. What would with our car happened if we had been a hundred yards further? We had to clear away the largest stones first before we could pass through the body gently. For Mexicans, this condition is normal, it is the rainy season, because something happens.
Once in Oaxaca, we experienced the worst streets of our recent trip to a city. Deep holes lined up together and brought our hobby, even at walking pace, so much for rocking that everything in the cupboards fell through today. The city itself has disappointed us, they simply had no atmosphere. Perhaps we also have so many beautiful things seen that our standards have shifted. Worth mentioning are the exotic delicacies such as dried crickets and grasshoppers roasted for which Oaxaca is famous. They were everywhere on the market, for Felix and me, the cost of locusts more fun and test of courage as a culinary delight.
There was a tasting in Matatlan but more to our liking. In the traditional mezcal distillery everything was not done so, as hundreds of years ago. The cooked agave Piñas, so only the inner parts of the agave, were a Malstein, driven by a horse power, crushed, fermented and then distilled over a wood fire. It did not look quite so appetizing - but the result counts, and we have tried in the small retail outlet and bought extensively. Even the bottle of Agavenwurm, really just a marketing gimmick, was not allowed to miss. To proceed, it was now too late, so we stayed just outside the small mezcal factory stand, talked shop with hands and feet of Mezcal and their production and cost us so slowly into sleep mood. Now we also know the difference between mezcal and tequila. Each is an agave Mezcal, is allowed only in the area around the blue agave tequila liquor is produced exclusively call tequila.
Monte Albán, the largest and most beautiful Zapotec establishment is situated only 10 miles west of Oaxaca, on a worn and flattened ridges, in 1936 meters height. We were driving on the steep and winding road to the main entrance and were almost the first visitors. From the northern platform, we had the best view of the Gran Plaza, the pyramids and therefore clustered complexes. Behind, up to 2000 year old buildings we have seen the surrounding countryside, valleys and mountains, like a theatrical backdrop. Thus it seemed that the huge floating plant between heaven and earth. It is a truly sublime place and we could well imagine how close you have here felt his gods and the Heaven must. Understand why, Monte Albán was abandoned in the year 750 of the Zapotec. A riddle to which there is still no answer.
07.09.2010 - Pacific Coast and Chiapas
She was neither pleasant nor interesting, the trip from Oaxaca to the Pacific. The road was in poor condition, often buried or broken off, and this fog and rain. We tortured ourselves through the Sierra Madre del Sur, twice a vertical drop of 1,500 meters mastered and then drove on winding Route, on the western slopes of the mountains, almost 3000 meters, to the coast. We passed through several climate zones and a tropical rain forest, which made its name - rain without end.
We had almost forgotten how the warm and humid air feels like on the coast and were quickly brought back to reality when we late in Zipolite opened the door of our air-conditioned motor home and against a wall heat moisture and bounced. Mosquitoes buzzed around us and used every opportunity to get to the motor home. "So this is the beautiful Pacific Coast" - Felix something was disappointed at first.
The next morning, everything looked different. On the humid heat we got used very quickly and the quaint Zipolite left us last night in which we have shared our camper with bloodthirsty mosquitoes, quickly forgotten. The coast is really beautiful.
just 50 miles further south lies Bahía de Huatulco, the ambitious tourism project of the Mexican government - a complete contrast to Zipolite. This was all new, clean - and expensive. For two days we enjoyed the amenities on the bay Santa Cruz, we had to drive on. Our schedule had us some slack.
far we were right but not after 20 kilometers on the Mex 200, impounded the truck. The drivers slept in their cars or sat together at breakfast. About 3 miles we walked along the dam, until we saw the cause. The small village road Copalita had barricaded the only road to the south and held a protest demonstration. The villagers were sitting with camping chairs in the street and discussed impulsive. Their faces showed pride and determination. Back at the camper for us there was only one alternative - and turn back to the beach. Our hobby was turning on the narrow road no problem, but the trucks had this possibility, they had to wait.
The next morning, the same image. The dam was widened even more. There was no warning at the last crossing of the police, so that more trucks drove into the trap. At the roadblock, it was time to loose, it was boiled and grilled, the driver could be supplied by the women and everything worked like a village fete - only the lock remained closed. "Maybe tomorrow," one replied to our question, when we could drive through. The Serenity of the drivers who now have the 3rd Here had to endure days was admirable. It seemed as if they expressed their solidarity with the villagers, at least they understand the situation. "So beach again," Felix said a little frustrated, "our schedule is, however, confuse Almighty. The next day was to bring the decision.
started after our morning swim in the Pacific and a good breakfast we have a new trial - and found the situation unchanged. "Today, something must happen," I said clearly irritated, "we have just yet to Oaxaca back. It would have been the worst solution, 400 km detour to catastrophic roads, and then to get there, where we were a week ago. A young couple in a Dodge van we spoke to. They knew a detour over the mountains, but did not want to go alone. We agreed and went on a 60-kilometer-long adventure ride. Debris, mud, water - it was all there, and after 7 hours we were exhausted but happy, back to the 200th Mex Our hobby has proven to be well on the track, without any rear wheel drive but not sure we would have done.
With 3 days late was our original travel plans no longer possible. The planned route to Palenque and entry to the north of Guatemala to visit Tikal, we now had to change radically. San Cristobal de Las Casas and San Juan Chamula Tzotzildorf mediated Felix a little impression of Chiapas and the customs of the indigenous people who live here, and then we drove to the border without detours.
14.09.2010 - Hasta luego Mexico
Driving through the green highlands of Chiapas to the border, we told much of the last time in Mexico. Almost 6 months, we have spent in Mexico, 15,000 kilometers by road to various state and the country, its people and the diverse culture met. From the initial culture shock, a deep attachment and affection has become.
Mexico is a country of contrasts! Dilapidated and dirty villages are in contrast to the magnificent colonial cities pollute the nature of absolute cleanliness, potholes to modern highways and extreme poverty to lavish wealth. Especially for the poor people we have admired the vitality and strength to get by each day somehow. This The Mexicans are very resourceful. Everywhere was sold anything and at almost every corner there was a primitive road snack. Also as referrers in the parking lot or the filling of potholes on the roads is expected some a small donation. With great composure, the wealth gap between rich and poor will be accepted. You take it for granted and finds support in the family and in faith.
remain unforgettable for us the magnificent landscapes, beautiful beaches, the unique products of the colonial era and the great pre-Hispanic culture of the Maya, Aztecs, Toltecs and the Zapotec. In addition, impressed again and again the warmth, the hospitality and the national pride of Mexicans.
Mexico is a great travel destination and therefore we do not say "Adios" but "Hasta luego Mexico" - we like to come again!
16.09.2010 - Guatemala: Lago de Atitlan and Antigua
on the border between Mexico and Guatemala was not more. A long line of cars stood in front of the closed barrier - And we stood in the middle. The reason for the temporarily closed border was more of a positive. Music and dance groups from Mexico and Guatemala demonstrated their friendship and turned the usually more sober border crossing into a place of joy and connectedness. In Guatemala's Independence Day was celebrated. After an hour of the show was over and we were allowed to pass without problems the border.
Guatemala welcomed us with complex, decorated in blue and white lines and a fiesta in every small village street. By early afternoon the first drunks staggering about the streets and prompted us to an extremely cautious driving. In the highlands, then a different picture. Here, in the area was dominated by indigenous people, not celebrated, it was the normal everyday life at present. Many indigenous people were traveling on foot. They carried baskets on their heads and their young children in wraparound slings on their backs. The short passing cars impressed her as little, as the later onset of heavy rain. For us it was a difficult trip because of rain and strong fog in many places broken away or buried road even more dangerous.
The final challenge in this busy day was the trip of a dangerous, lower on the hill, winding road to the 500 meters past Lake Atitlan. Here, had completely washed away the worst rainy season for many years the road. On a muddy, mined in the mountain path, we passed this place with a beating heart. About 21:00 clock we had done it then, we were Tzanjuyú the hotel, right on the lake, and left us a taste of freshly baked pizza - of course the on-board oven.
The next morning we were woken up by sunlight. The lake was quiet in the morning mist, on the opposite shore we saw the volcanoes Atitlán, Toliman, San Pedro and the small Cerro de Oro. It was an uplifting sight and we could now understand that Alexander von Humboldt described the Lake Atitlán as the most beautiful lake in the world.
Panajachel itself is a very touristy place with everything you need for a vacation time. We stayed 3 days here, hiked a bit and visited the other side of the lake located on the San Pedro. So beautiful and idyllic and the sea from the shore, worked on the boat ride we have recognized his problem very clearly: the Atitlan lake is filthy. Plastic bottles and other waste floating in great numbers on the surface and crackled while driving against the hull. Even empty oil cans floating in the lake, leaving a corresponding track in the water. When will people understand this part of the world finally you break so that their own future and that of their children.
From Panajachel, we started towards Antigua. Once again we had to pass the critical point on the winding road, but this time at least during daylight. Some workers were busy building a temporary bridge - it was! In Antigua, we went directly to the well-known among travelers parking at the site of the Tourist Police. He was not exactly idyllic, but the proximity to the center and above all safety on the site were more important here.
Antigua is generally regarded as the most attractive city in Guatemala called. It has retained its colonial charm, has atmosphere. For over 200 years was the capital of Antigua Guatemala, more than 50 sumptuous churches, monasteries and convents were built in no time and went to Antigua's most beautiful capital of the New World. The devastating earthquake of 29 July 1773 transformed the city within minutes into a pile of rubble. To the remaining ruins, we could see the former beauty of the architecture. In the evening, when the sparse street lighting, the bumpy cobblestone streets dived into the gloom, had opened the traditional candle-lit pubs and bars, inviting their doors and windows and the view of the roughly hewn medieval tables and chairs shares, because we understood that we were here in a very special city.
"In Antigua you can hold it a bit longer." This so lightly said a sentence brought us back to reality. We, Petra and Bernd would still remain some time in Antigua and also learn some English, for Felix was the day of parting came. Just in time for the taxi stand at Aeropuerto motor home, a beautiful time together was ending.
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