27.06.2010 - Our first tropical storm
on the well built Mex 307 we drove, always following the coast of the Caribbean Sea, south. To Chetumal is about 300 km, but after a lot of us we were halfway through a guide to the Costa Maya of our planned route . Dissuaded
on a peninsula east of the Laguna Bacalar and the Bahia Chetumal, is Mahahual, an isolated and tranquil fishing village, which is recovering from the devastation of Hurricane Dean. In 2007, Dean was raging here, and destroyed the entire village. Even the once dense forest is gone, are left only uprooted and wrapped trees, which will probably meet for several decades the demand for firewood.
In Miguel's beach bar, next to which we had found a great place for the night, we sat until late into the night and listened to his tales of the ferocious hurricane. His new bar is now much more stable than the old built - but the fear of, in ever shorter intervals raging forces of nature is with him, like all residents of the town, everywhere. Many had lost their existence at that time completely, their often poorer property was not insured or the insurance did not pay.
After a stormy night We were in the early morning disturbance of Miguel's wife. She told us in broken English that we can not stop at the coast - it would be unsafe. Miguel brought only then, for us to understand the explanation. A storm warning has prompted him to remove his bar completely and he gave us the advice, a few miles inland to wait for the storm.
Shortly after noon it began to rain heavily and the evening was raging tropical storm Celia, who has since been upgraded to a hurricane high above us. In the Pacific, but he had developed his strength While crossing the Mexican mainland and set up already lost this time in Mahahual only minor damage.
We stood with our hobby sheltered behind a hotel and have weathered the storm quite night unscathed. The next morning, I was just looking for a way to view the World Cup match between Germany and England, the people of Mahahual were at it the destroyed pier repair and debris that had washed the sea to the coastal eliminate.
The storm was over, the rain stopped and we decided to drive on. Flooded roads and partly collapsed, the banks came rushing rivers and rain without a break, our companion on the journey through the states of Quintana Roo and Campeche as far as Chiapas. Later we learned that the Tropical Storm Darby, the fourth this year, which was cause.
30.06.2010 - San Cristobal de las Casas: reality Zapatista and indigenous traditions
The road from Palenque to San Cristobal de las Casas was adventurous in two ways. For one thing, this mountain range, especially after the massive rains in recent days, in poor condition - the other led them through an area which is known as a stronghold of the Zapatistas. Although the EZLN (in German: Zapatista Army of National Liberation) today described as a violent guerrilla organization that has been repeatedly reported robberies on this road.
was the first time the EZLN on 1 January 1994 Release. On this day in Chiapas were 800 armed and masked men in surprise attacks, the city halls of San Cristobal de las Casas, Margarita and Las Ocosingo and other towns and villages to raise awareness about the discrimination against the indigenous population in Chiapas attention. After 12 days of armed struggle with the army a perpetual truce was agreed. In the Treaty of San Andrés in 1996 the indigenous population broad autonomy rights were promised, but not by the Mexican government agreed adopted as law.
Subsequently, it was always bloody attacks by right-wing paramilitaries, as on 12.22.1997 in the village of acetal, where 45 people were killed. Most victims were women and children - 21,000 people fled their villages. Since 2003, the EZLN is independent in 38 municipalities in Chiapas a de facto autonomy in order, for which, however, there is no legal basis.
Our route to San Cristobal led precisely through this area and get away with one of the most insecure parts of Mexico - but we had to through. We were very shocked when we meet two pickups with masked men came in the back, but they had no interest in us. Aside from the bad road condition, there was a problem and the last miles in the Highlands even very beautiful drive. After 6 hours we had made the 200 km and reached San Cristóbal in the early evening.
The beautiful old colonial town is located at 2100m between pine forests and lush meadows. The climate did us very well. After the humid heat of the coast, we experienced spring-like temperatures by day and a pleasant coolness in the night. We pulled out our blankets from the storage room and slept again really good. Basko also felt quite comfortable.
The next day was getting up early, very fashionable to the chagrin of Petra. We wanted to go before the other tourists in the Indian village of San Juan Chamula. In the countryside of San Cristóbal live the Maya Tzeltal and Tzotzil tribes, by their own rules, in a preserved cultural identity for centuries. They dress in their traditional costumes and speak their own languages to this day, many do not understand English.
The road to San Juan Chamula winds through one of meadows and woods-lined hills, past farms and houses of the Indians. Many of the Tzotzil live scattered in the surrounding area. The place is for them the center of tribal life and the Church of San Juan Bautista and religious center.
The church is a landmark in Mexico. Originally built as a Catholic church she has neither the banks nor altar or organ. Tourists are allowed to visit the church, when in the background, keeps the ceremonies do not mind and photographed under any circumstances. We stepped through the portal into the church and were immediately caught by the ineffable mysterious mood. On which, with fragrant pine needles strewn tile floor burned hundreds of candles. There was a smell of wax and incense. Indians were sitting on the floor in small groups and muttering unintelligible prayers. They drank Posh, a self-fired high-proof liquor, is used as a trance medium, and cola. On the left, in front of a shrine, we saw a healing ceremony. A shaman tapped the body of the Indians with a bunch of herbs, muttering prayers that were more intense. Here, a live chicken was swung over the flames of the candles and then killed. In the middle of the church, an old man knelt, he drank too posh and muttered prayers. It bothered him little, that we observed in a reasonable distance of this play, he just smiled at us and continued his ceremony, which was also an animal sacrifice to a climax. A little confused, we left this magical place in the ancient Mayan rituals with the customs of the Catholic conquerors were mixed.
the afternoon and the next day we spent in San Cristobal de las Casas. The old colonial center to the central Zócalo, the Cathedral and the nice little streets we loved. It was all clean and well maintained. In the city we saw many indigenous people who acted with little things. They were absolutely not intrusive and a friendly "No, gracias señora" is usually sufficient to stop the sales pitch.
In a different dimension to the Mercado Indígena, the largest market in the area, acted. He is considered one of the most interesting markets in Mexico. With a vast number of fruit, vegetables, meat and fish stalls, with an artful craft and cheap junk and with its good and bad smells, he brought us once again the reality of indigenous life in more detail.
About Tuxtla Gutierrez we drove to the Canyon del Sumidero. 1000 meters deep has been here the Rio Grijalva in the Rock cut. Today the river is dammed and used for energy. The canyon is a scenic road opened up with several vantage points from which we had impressive views in the gorge. Here too, we met again the history and the pride of the Mayas. On an information board we could read that have plunged in 1527 over 2000 Chiapas Maya of the canyon edge together in death, in order to escape slavery by the Spaniards.
With the many varied impressions of the last day we drove on.
04.07.2010 - At Hogar Infantil in Ocozocoautla
We wanted a place where we could the events of the last days to process and lodge the same time a small break and found this at Hogar Infantil, a Mexican orphanage in Texas owned.
The children's home is beautifully middle of a ranch near the small town Ocozocoautla. On the edge of the ranch were four pitches for camper vans and off electricity and water we had even WiFi Internet. On the very first day the director came to us to be welcomed warmly. We could watch it all take up contact with the children and the volunteers and educators we answered every question.
particularly impressed us, worked around how nice and friendly the children together. It is also interesting that almost all had a skilled vocation. Whether young people later in the really teachers, engineers or doctors is not as important, important is the will to make their life the best. All have grasped their chance and work on their future.
The climate was very pleasant, we took long walks and had time and opportunity to once again bring order into our rolling budget. We felt completely at home and moved our journey day by day.
On Saturday it should be give a high point. In Mexico, as in all of Latin America, the 15th Birthday girl a very special day. This, as Quinceañera marks known and long-awaited entry into the hard world of women. Even the children's home this holiday was celebrated, this time it was 5 girls who were on that day at the center. We were delighted by the invitation of the Director, we had the chances to shoot some photos.
The girls were dressed beautifully, they were proud of that day and very excited. The celebration began with a prayer in the small Church of the orphanage. Then it went into the large multi-purpose room to celebrate. Friends and relatives of the girls were visiting, and of course, all children in the home there. The fact that the invitation of the Director were also linked to participate in the banquet and a reserved seat at the table was director, we have something unpleasant. We were outsiders and were so fast to the main characters.
warmth, hospitality, vitality and sense of community are the terms in which we have described this wonderful day. As we light for the bill for the campsite asked, we only saw astonished faces and shake their heads. It cost nothing! Found on the children's home but a donation was possible, so we left after less than a week this convivial place with a good conscience.
12/07/2010 - On the Pacific coast from Acapulco
Our way of the Pacific coast took us through the foothills of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas. Even the landscape was green, the air clear and fresh, but the further we came to the Pacific, the warmer and more humid, the climate. The Mex 200 runs at some distance from the coast and we needed three tries before we found a suitable place for the night. Near the village Emiliano Zapata, on the Mar Muerto, we found a very nice place between the beach restaurants. The soft drinks were cold and cheap, have eaten nothing. The hygiene of the kitchen has prevented us from. The next morning we saw how polluted the lagoon was. As well as the many carved signs helped with the request to throw away any waste, nothing. We did always hurt to see if we had, how these outstanding natural beauty is being abused.
About Salina Cruz, a less attractive port and refinery town, we drove to Huatulco. This is implemented by the Mexican Tourism Board is a gigantic project. Huatulco is the collective term for nine romantic coves and several new or expanded locations. Much is still under construction, first for 2018 is the planned completion, but already the region suffers from lack of tourists. We found a quiet parking lot, right in the center of Santa Cruz, one of the main places of Huatulco.
To the Zócalo is lined with bars and restaurants, the tables were to the beach - but it hardly were guests there. Since it helped very little that you have been raised at every turn and face any menus. We used our preferred parking lot, to take every morning a cool dip in the clean bay of Santa Cruz. Then we explored the beautiful area. Unlike Cancún one relies on gentle and modest tourism. There are no big hotels, everything fits relatively well into the landscape.
The Pacific usually has a different temperament than in the bays of Huatulco, it is rough, with high breaking waves and a dangerous undertow. In many coastal areas there is no way to swim. This also applies to the coast north of Puerto Angel. This is Zipolite, a legendary cult beach, backpackers, budget travelers and dropouts attracts alike. A little further north, it is quieter but no less beautiful.
La Ventanilla (small window) is a small fishing village with only 25 families. The place name is derived from a rock with a window-like opening. After an extended walk on the beach, where we were able to observe again, as was fishing with nets from the beach, we ate very well in the restaurant of the place and we then made comfortable in the hobby. By nine it knocked timidly at our camper and the owner of the restaurant offered us directly to park near her house. It would be better and much safer. The night was over quickly, that is, we slept well and soundly.
The next morning we visited the Mexican Turtle Center in the neighboring Mazunte. The Center provides marine biologists to study science and breeding of all seven turtle species found in Mexico. Particularly interesting for us was the leatherback turtle. Long we were standing at the edge of the pool and watch their funny face at the appearance. It is the largest sea turtle ever, up to 2 meters long and 600 kg in weight, it can be.
The fact that this turtle is in the center is Mazunte no accident. Many sea turtles come to the beaches of Mazunte to lay their eggs, and until 1990 were the capture and marketing of turtles, the main source of income for coastal communities. Some days were in Mazunte thousands of animals trapped and slaughtered by the Mexican government issued a ban on fishing, but also to the fishermen and their families withdrew their livelihoods. With an exemplary environmental development program, the entire area was transformed. Today, earn the people of La Ventanilla Mazunte and their income through tourism, through the center of turtles and the production and sale of natural personal care products.
About Puerto Escondido, we drove further north, Acapulco was our goal. Mostly we spent the night in driving days at the long-range PEMEX gas stations or in small towns. Acapulco just before it was as if we are bent once again looking for a place to sleep by the Mex 200 towards coast. Las Peñas was standing on the street sign, and after 10 km we were in the small town where he was the probably even lost a tourist. The road was always bad, sometimes it was just a mud track. In the last huts was located in the bottom of the lagoon Chautengo. Somehow we managed to turn our hobby. We were interested and cautiously observed, and our greetings were returned very reserved. I had the sentence: "Just get out of here!" On the lips when we were the first house of the village waved friendly. It was now almost dark now and Petra said: "Now I wonder if we can stay here." It was a good idea! We experienced so much kindness and helpfulness were rewarded with fruit and fresh eggs and the next morning showed us the son of the family of the village. Many villagers came over to us to see the guests from the Far Alemania, and welcome. Was some disappointment on their faces when we face Lunch adopted to take the last mile to Acapulco to the dogs.
22/07/2010 - Acapulco
The last 20 km to Acapulco was a hard test of our nerves. Not much faster than walking pace, we passed countless construction sites and road sections, which consisted only of mud and holes. Then, arriving in Acapulco, the heavy traffic prevented a reasonable Progress. We crossed the city far above the coast. From there we had a fantastic view of the bay and were simultaneously experiencing the greatest problems of Acapulco. By the uncontrolled influx of poor villagers in search of work, exploded from about 1950 population. A sound urban development was not given, so that the upper part of the bay to this day of humble dwellings, dirt and crime dominated. Since 1990, the city is a complex rehabilitation program, the biggest problems in getting to grips with and, above all, to rehabilitate with untreated waste water polluted bay. Most tourists stay in the nice hotel zone and not learn much from these problems - as long as they are not victims of the many thieves or fraudsters. Acapulco is in the crime statistics near the top - ahead of Mexico City.
Our destination was the small fishing village of Pie de la Cuesta, which on the northern outskirts of Acapulco, located on a narrow spit of land between the Pacific and the Laguna de Coyuca. At the giant freshwater lagoon already Silvester Stallone, who fought in Rambo 2, today it is a very quiet and relaxing place. The well-kept trailer park offered us all the necessary comfort and there was a direct bus to the center of Acapulco.
The bus ride in the Vorortbus to Acapulco was a very special experience. At least 20 years old, rickety and so rusty that we could see from the inside through the rust holes in the bottom of the street, it surprised us that the bus is not broken apart. The doors did not work properly, valves were not present and the driver was sitting on a kind of camp chair behind the big steering wheel. The only thing that worked well the sound was on the bus. Deafening Mexican music was the vehicle to a rolling disco, but it seemed to bother anyone - even young children slept peacefully in the arms of their mothers. After 30 thrilling minutes we were in Acapulco at the Zocalo, and marveled us that this scrap heap are still used to carry passengers.
Our first destination was the famous La Quebrada cliff divers, the most famous attraction of Acapulco. From 35 meters high rushed to Clavadistas (Death Knight), past the sloping into the sea cliffs, narrow in the bay. They had to repel not only strong, to the sharp rocks by jumping into the sparkling waters of the bay, but still wait for the exact time when the surf in the small bay and a water depth flowed managed these jumps allowed only . During the demonstration, the difficulty of the jumps were each increased. Somersaults, jumps backward and synchronized jumps were the highlights. After each jump the Clavadistas climbed on the cliff top to provide a second time to show their courage.
Not so spectacular, but much more informative, was the Historical Museum at Fort San Diego. In a beautifully presented exhibition, the development of Acapulco to the starting point of English expansion in the Pacific was presented. The English galleons from Acapulco sailed toward East Asia and the Philippines to sea to search for months, heavily laden with treasures, here again to land. The ships were unloaded and transported valuable goods such as porcelain, silk and spices with donkey caravans to Vera Cruz. From there, the next shipment was to Spain. The golden treasures of Peru took this path. To protect against Dutch and English pirates 1776 the Fort was built in San Diego.
Back in Pie de la Cuesta we saw once again one of the spectacular sunsets for which this place is famous. After a few nice days at sea, we moved again in the climatically more central highlands.
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